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Published on:

26th Oct 2024

Co.JP and Global Sneaker Culture

Co.JP, or Concept Japan, has played a pivotal role in shaping international sneaker culture over the last two decades, a fact that many sneaker enthusiasts may overlook today. Host Matt dives into the history and significance of Co.JP, highlighting how its exclusivity and innovative designs contributed to the global sneaker phenomenon.

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Transcript
Matt Fraits:

Is CO JP responsible for international sneaker love today?

Matt Fraits:

I'm not sure, but we're going to get into that this time on Fire Footwear.

Matt Fraits:

Welcome back to Fire Footwear, everybody.

Matt Fraits:

As always, this is your host, Matt Fraits.

Matt Fraits:

I hope that this finds you well and I as always want to thank you for coming back to this podcast that means the world to me.

Matt Fraits:

We have some really exciting things happening for the rest of this year and possibly even into next year, and I'm very happy that you're on this journey with us.

Matt Fraits:

Last week I ended with a release of the week and I talked about the CO JP what the Dunk Low.

Matt Fraits:

And I did mention that it wasn't something that I was a huge fan of.

Matt Fraits:

I'm not a particular fan of what the collaborations in general because I feel like they just aren't wearable.

Matt Fraits:

They don't look practical to me, but I understand the significance of them.

Matt Fraits:

They're trying to pay homage to all of the different releases that have happened for a particular brand, a particular collaboration, whatever it is.

Matt Fraits:

But I mentioned it because this week I wanted to talk about Code jp and the reason why I wanted to do that is because in the social media posts about this what the Dunk Low, I noticed that there was a lot of consistency in the comments.

Matt Fraits:

And that consistency was apathy.

Matt Fraits:

And apathy in sneakers is never good.

Matt Fraits:

It's actually the antithesis of hype and that is not what you want.

Matt Fraits:

And I wonder today if perhaps many people don't understand the significance of CO JP and what it actually has meant to the culture over the last 20 some odd years.

Matt Fraits:

Because in today's world, where everything is accessible, international releases don't necessarily come with the exclusivity that they used to.

Matt Fraits:

I kind of wonder if maybe people have forgotten the impact that they had.

Matt Fraits:

And so I wanted to take this episode to actually go over some of the history and try to remind people or maybe even educate in the first place what CO JP meant.

Matt Fraits:

You got to remember, today is different.

Matt Fraits:

And today, much like back in the day, though different cities around the world did have in whole different spaces within the sneaker culture.

Matt Fraits:

Even within the United States.

Matt Fraits:

You can go to a ton of metropolitan areas all across the country, Boston, New York, Louisiana, even within the same state, you will find a lot of different cities have different cultures.

Matt Fraits:

The DMV, the Washington D.C.

Matt Fraits:

area where I currently live has its own culture and people are very proud of those cultures.

Matt Fraits:

And throughout the years, throughout the decades of Sneakers, those cities have continued to define themselves in terms of their own culture and also within sneaker culture as well.

Matt Fraits:

Sneakers now are a worldwide phenomenon.

Matt Fraits:

And I think Japan is a top tier country, Tokyo a top tier city in terms of its contributions to the culture.

Matt Fraits:

about sneaker Cities early in:

Matt Fraits:

It just is.

Matt Fraits:

And the reason for that is because way back in the late 90s, Co JP was an initiative that Nike started to try to tap into the different culture and the different sort of fashion sense that people in Japan had more specifically in Tokyo.

Matt Fraits:

And during the early times, you got to remember exclusivity was really, really huge.

Matt Fraits:

And Nike wasn't able to just distribute everything across the world.

Matt Fraits:

Collaborations weren't available to every single person, every single time they come out.

Matt Fraits:

There was a lot of legwork that had to go into it.

Matt Fraits:

So Nike as a business, and let's all remember Nike is a business, they are a sportswear business, but they are tapping into fashion and streetwear nowadays.

Matt Fraits:

And they started to do that in the late 90s, because now we're very heavy into the Michael Jordan and Jordan brand era.

Matt Fraits:

Michael Jordan at this point is retired and about ready to come back and play for the Wizards.

Matt Fraits:

But they've already been through how many iterations of Air Jordans And I think the love of Air Jordans and what it was doing for the culture, what it was doing for Nike was starting to wane a little bit.

Matt Fraits:

And Nike needed to find a different niche.

Matt Fraits:

And what they decided to do was to create Concepts Japan, which is what CO JP stands for.

Matt Fraits:

And they did that in:

Matt Fraits:

And this is where they took their sneakers and they took all of their business and they tried to tap into this market in Japan.

Matt Fraits:

And it allowed Nike to create Japanese exclusives.

Matt Fraits:

And what that did was create almost this mystical allure globally to what these CO JP releases were.

Matt Fraits:

And you got to remember again, back then, sneakers weren't readily available online.

Matt Fraits:

If you wanted something, if you were a collector, you had to have relationships, you had to initiate trades or in order to cop these exclusives, you had to know people in those countries in order to do so.

Matt Fraits:

And CO JP with all the fire that they were releasing and the exclusivity that came along with that, it was causing a global phenomenon.

Matt Fraits:

Sneakerheads all over the world were trying to get their hands on these.

Matt Fraits:

And if you really think about it, if you Dive into the core of what this truly means.

Matt Fraits:

I believe that Concepts Japan was actually laying the very core bricks of the foundation of what we know today as sneaker reselling.

Matt Fraits:

Because I think that sneaker reselling has happened for a very long time.

Matt Fraits:

What I think has differentiated it over time is the for profit nature of it.

Matt Fraits:

I think reselling for a very long time came with a love of sneakers that I think many more people shared back then.

Matt Fraits:

Sneaker culture has changed a lot.

Matt Fraits:

I believe that newer people into the culture, or at least over the last 10 or 12 years or so, especially since the advent of StockX and goat, I believe people are in it for personal gain, more so than the love of the culture.

Matt Fraits:

And underneath all of that, underneath the greed, underneath the money, is the true culture that I love, the true culture that I like to talk about on this podcast.

Matt Fraits:

And I think that when you look back on what Concepts Japan was doing, I really believe that it is laying the foundation for so many things culturally, whether it's good or bad.

Matt Fraits:

Because you can say that resale is a bad thing if you're somebody who doesn't participate, who has to pay high resale prices, it's bad for you.

Matt Fraits:

If you're somebody who does participate in resell, you may be making or have made a lot of money up until this point.

Matt Fraits:

s, early:

Matt Fraits:

Because now it's not just Japanese culture, it's not just American culture, really.

Matt Fraits:

Even though we have cities that have their own culture that are defined or uniquely defined by what they have always been.

Matt Fraits:

Culturally, I believe that sneaker culture is more global.

Matt Fraits:

I believe that people identify as sneaker lovers all over the globe.

Matt Fraits:

I mean, even in this podcast, people are listening from all over the world.

Matt Fraits:

And that blows my mind.

Matt Fraits:

But they're all listening to the same thing.

Matt Fraits:

They're all listening for the same content.

Matt Fraits:

And again, I think we forget about the roots of how this started.

Matt Fraits:

So think about it.

Matt Fraits:

ppened over time, starting in:

Matt Fraits:

k Low Plum, first released in:

Matt Fraits:

That's an iconic Dunk Low and it's one that has been retroed a few times over the years.

Matt Fraits:

And it has always had the kind of place in Sneaker culture, especially in dunk lows, that people want it.

Matt Fraits:

And every time it releases, I believe people want it.

Matt Fraits:

But do they understand the history of it?

Matt Fraits:

I'm not sure.

Matt Fraits:

The Jordan one, of course, is going to have a place in history, no matter what kind of collaboration you're talking about, no matter what entity or historical entity you're talking about.

Matt Fraits:

And Obviously, the Jordan 1 has a place with concepts Japan.

Matt Fraits:

The Jordan 1 Midnight Navy.

Matt Fraits:

th anniversary in:

Matt Fraits:

Again, the presentation, the premium materials that people heard about back in the day, now, again, we take them for granted, but people knew about them back then.

Matt Fraits:

They wanted them, they were coveted.

Matt Fraits:

Also, the Jordan one, neutral gray, another one that has retroed recently to help celebrate this 20th anniversary of concepts Japan.

Matt Fraits:

Again, these are coming with a premium material, premium presentation.

Matt Fraits:

This is something that we don't normally see in sneakers today.

Matt Fraits:

I believe that they're doing better at it.

Matt Fraits:

you got to think to the late:

Matt Fraits:

Sneaker materials were bad.

Matt Fraits:

And I think today we are a little bit more accustomed to nicer materials, nicer releases.

Matt Fraits:

They obviously don't get it right all the time, but I think they're doing more due diligence in that fact.

Matt Fraits:

Every single release to continue on this trend.

Matt Fraits:

This recently retroed.

Matt Fraits:

Earlier this year, the Air Force won linen, the brown, the pink.

Matt Fraits:

It was something that people said, must cop.

Matt Fraits:

And I think they.

Matt Fraits:

It is a must cop for them because it's one of those shoes that they knew about.

Matt Fraits:

And that's where I think some of these are maybe lost in translation, because I think it might be like what I talked about last week with Nigo.

Matt Fraits:

If you knew, you knew.

Matt Fraits:

And today you maybe don't know, but maybe you don't care.

Matt Fraits:

And I think sometimes when it comes to sneakers, the idea of apathy in the culture, the idea of apathy as it relates to the past sometimes hurts me.

Matt Fraits:

But I also think about the culture today and think about younger people today and realize that I, as somebody who loves the history, can't tell people how to participate in the culture.

Matt Fraits:

I can't tell people what they should and shouldn't know about sneakers, what they should or shouldn't hold in high regard.

Matt Fraits:

I think it's important to share knowledge, and I think that's something that maybe we don't do enough of, because I think there are creators, I think there are sneaker people.

Matt Fraits:

Who think that they know more than somebody else.

Matt Fraits:

And I never think that.

Matt Fraits:

I try and remain humble.

Matt Fraits:

I try and understand that I'm still learning.

Matt Fraits:

There are so many stories, there are so many facts, so many historical elements about the culture of sneakers, not just since Michael Jordan, but beyond that, that I don't even know yet.

Matt Fraits:

And I can learn those from other people.

Matt Fraits:

And that's where I try to bring this podcast and this YouTube channel whenever I do YouTube content to try and educate or at least remind people of how we got to where we are.

Matt Fraits:

And I think that when I see apathetic comments or I even see negative comments about the what the dunks nobody cares about co JP it makes me sad because you should at least care to understand why certain people like it.

Matt Fraits:

Maybe only the OGs like it, and that's fine.

Matt Fraits:

But the OGs are what started this.

Matt Fraits:

So Concepts Japan, I said, was laying the core of the foundation of sneaker culture in terms of international relevance.

Matt Fraits:

And really it was laying the core of the foundation for a lot of what we have today in sneakers.

Matt Fraits:

And if you're somebody who doesn't know this and doesn't care about this, that's fine.

Matt Fraits:

But just understand that the people that came before you, the culture that was built before you, is what got you to this place.

Matt Fraits:

And I think that Concepts Japan is very, very influential in making sure that that happened.

Matt Fraits:

And I think that it's something that should be studied.

Matt Fraits:

t more information because in:

Matt Fraits:

Did they take the time to retell this story for younger people, for newer people in the culture?

Matt Fraits:

And that is something that I have complained about a lot this year, and maybe complain is too strong of a word, but pointed out that Nike Jordan brand are not doing enough storytelling.

Matt Fraits:

I don't mean storytelling in the materials of the shoe or the shoe itself.

Matt Fraits:

I mean, when you have a retro, when you have something that is revered in sneaker culture, you should be telling the story that goes along with it.

Matt Fraits:

They're trying to do that with the reimagined series and I do applaud them for that, but they're not doing enough.

Matt Fraits:

When you release the what the dunk low for Concepts Japan and people don't care, you're not doing a good enough job.

Matt Fraits:

Complex.

Matt Fraits:

Telling me that it's important isn't going to be enough.

Matt Fraits:

Nike, the brand has to do more in making sure that that is possible.

Matt Fraits:

And I implore you, go look up CO JP releases, go look up the history, do a really quick Google search of what concepts Japan was and find out what it meant to the culture.

Matt Fraits:

And maybe it won't make you buy a sneaker, maybe it won't make you care more, but you'll have some knowledge that you didn't before and you can share it with somebody else that maybe looks up to you in the culture.

Matt Fraits:

And I think it's all very important that we do knowledge sharing as much as possible.

Matt Fraits:

And before we get out of here, of course we have a release of the week.

Matt Fraits:

Release of the week where I like to highlight a shoe that catches my eye.

Matt Fraits:

It's not always hype and this week it is not.

Matt Fraits:

It's just something that I want you to know about.

Matt Fraits:

So this shoe, much like last week, ties into some future content that I have already put together for you.

Matt Fraits:

And it is the Adidas Crazy 8 Low.

Matt Fraits:

And it is $120 releases on November 1st, which I believe is next Friday.

Matt Fraits:

The reason that I mentioned this is because this video recently came out on the Wear Testers YouTube channel and I was extremely fortunate to sit down with Chris from Wear Testers and we sat down for over an hour and we talked about very little sneakers.

Matt Fraits:

Honestly, it was a great chat.

Matt Fraits:

I'm going to put it out in audio, put it out in video, and I hope that the final product reflects just how amazing the chat was.

Matt Fraits:

He is one of the most genuine and humble people I've met in sneakers.

Matt Fraits:

And especially with the success that he has built, the success he and his wife have earned, I believe that staying humble and remembering humble beginnings is such a great trait.

Matt Fraits:

And being genuine, being authentic, being accessible as creators, especially when people come to you and people have done that here with fire footwear to say, I feel heard, I feel seen, and I love that.

Matt Fraits:

I love how humble he was.

Matt Fraits:

And I cannot wait for you to hear that.

Matt Fraits:

So that shoe was really a means for you to go to wear.

Matt Fraits:

Testers subscribe to their YouTube, Instagram, all that good stuff.

Matt Fraits:

Watch that review.

Matt Fraits:

It's cool.

Matt Fraits:

And it also speaks to a time in Kobe's career where he was still with Adidas.

Matt Fraits:

I think nowadays we're so used to Kobe's coming out and being Nike retros, but his time with Adidas did have some fire.

Matt Fraits:

And I think it's worth a look back, just like it is for Concepts Japan.

Matt Fraits:

How do you feel about CO JP releases?

Matt Fraits:

Is it something that you knew about?

Matt Fraits:

Is it something that you feel like you are in tune with the history of or is it something you don't care about?

Matt Fraits:

-:

Matt Fraits:

Don't forget to do that country code of one.

Matt Fraits:

Since I am in the United States, of course you can follow me on Instagram at Fire Footwear Pot is the handle at Fire Footwear Pot on TikTok.

Matt Fraits:

If you want to watch the show on YouTube, Fire Footwear sneakers Talk is what you would search.

Matt Fraits:

If you go there and you like the videos, please hit subscribe.

Matt Fraits:

It means a lot.

Matt Fraits:

I'm trying to build that and give you some different things because as a content creator I just love making content for you.

Matt Fraits:

I hope this finds everybody well fam.

Matt Fraits:

I hope this finds everybody safe and I appreciate everybody's listening ear and I will talk to you next time.

Matt Fraits:

This is Fire Footwear.

Matt Fraits:

The opinions and viewpoints expressed on Fire Footwear are those of Matt Frates and his guest and not necessarily those of the Maddie Ice Media Network.

Matt Fraits:

Fire Footwear is exclusively owned by Matt Freights and is brought to you by the Madi Ice.

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About the Podcast

Fire Footwear: Sneakers Talk (with Matt Frates)
Exploring the People and Stories Behind Sneaker Culture
Step into the world of sneakers with host Matt Frates. Each week, we unravel the unique stories behind the sneakers and the culture. From iconic designs to influential figures, discover fresh perspectives and in-depth discussions on the sneakers that shape our world. If you live for sneaker talk and crave insightful takes, this is your go-to podcast. This podcast is brought to you by the Matty Ice Media Network.

Presented by the Matty Ice Media Network.

Matty Ice Media Network: https://www.mattyicemedia.com
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